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Carrier Aggregation causes loss of signal?

uknowiama

Top Member
So not long set up the new rural Internet connection. 4G with directional antenna. Was pointing to a mast. Band 20. RSRP -77dBM. RSRQ -9dB. 75% signal strength. Working. 10 to 20Mbps up and down.

Left for half a day.

Came back and found that the 4G Internet link seemed slow. Checked the router. Now set to 4G+ using bands 1 and 20. Signal strength is 25%. RSRP = -102dBM. So the router had started using carrier aggregation.

Data speeds now 2 to 5 Mbps down. And 2 to 3 up. Maybe if left it would of improved.

So is this normal. When a router tries to bond two bands together it can be detrimental. I presume from the RSRP its not a good signal?

Or can you run on -102dBM RSRP? And still have a useable connection? Was I took focused on getting more than -80dBM?

Help, previous experience, advice appreciated.

I realigned the antenna to get it back solely on band 20 and RSRP of -79dBM.
 
If its gone from B20. RSRP -77dBM to now B1+B20 -102dBM RSRP then it sounds to me as though its jumped Cell Masts, or it may have just moved to a different Mast Sector on the original Mast, but the fact its now providing 4G+ CA then I would say a different Cell Mast.

-102dBM RSRP is still a workable Signal, but not as good as -77bdm, which is around +24db better, but its not always about Signal Strength, each Mast Quality comes into play as well.

Its not normal for the Signal Strength to change that much when CA is present or kicks in, it should be roughly constant if is being served from the same Mast,

Does the Router not give you Cell ID or eNBID Info that will tell you a bit more, its not uncommon for Routers to move around Masts even with a Directional Antenna(s), depends on Mast positions, line of sight, Signals Strengths etc.
 
Does the TP-Link give the Cell ID or eNBID, the screenshot on your other thread does not give much information.
 
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I concur with EssexBoy, your connection will have jumped over to a different mast.

I assume we're talking Three here... and if so, their B1 is top priority of their bands and B20 the lowest - they really don't want you on that (as primary band) unless there is virtually no other option - because you have a sniff of B1 its favouring that over the 'stronger' B20, due to the prioritisation.
You cannot change the prioritisation - thats configured from the network site, though you can do things like re-position to lower the strength of the signal you don't want or, if your device allows, disable the bands you don't want to connect to.
 
Yes, I noticed this on Three with Bands 3,20 on local mast. For some reason CA Bands 3 and 20 together was slower :/ In the end I locked the modem to Band 3 which gave me the best and most stable download, upload and ping results.

I don't know how or why, but my modem would always use Band 20 as Primary and then Band 3 as secondary.

I have since upgraded my gear to a 5G router and getting double my best speeds on Band 3 about ~40-50mbps. I'm not sure how exactly it is doing it as the modem only tells me the primary band (Band 3) on my local mast! I am now hoping that they will upgrade the mast with Band 1 and 28, therefore giving another speed boost.
 
I concur with EssexBoy, your connection will have jumped over to a different mast.

I assume we're talking Three here... and if so, their B1 is top priority of their bands and B20 the lowest - they really don't want you on that (as primary band) unless there is virtually no other option - because you have a sniff of B1 its favouring that over the 'stronger' B20, due to the prioritisation.
You cannot change the prioritisation - thats configured from the network site, though you can do things like re-position to lower the strength of the signal you don't want or, if your device allows, disable the bands you don't want to connect to.
Lebara according to the screenshot on the other thread:
 
Ah, then possibly similar with Vodafone then; but preferring B1 over B20 (their base layer), rather than trying very hard to avoid letting you onto B20 as a single band (like Three do)
 
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Thanks for comments. Had a quick read.

Lebara sim so on vodafone.

TPLINK Archer MR600 cat 6 router. Unfortunately its very basic - can't lock bands. Or cell id. Etc. Unless there are hidden menus?
 
Thanks for comments. Had a quick read.

Lebara sim so on vodafone.

TPLINK Archer MR600 cat 6 router. Unfortunately its very basic - can't lock bands. Or cell id. Etc. Unless there are hidden menus?
V1 or V2?

V1 has a special firmware that lets you choose bands:

Apparently V2 has it in stock firmware?
 
Thanks for comments. Had a quick read.

Lebara sim so on vodafone.

TPLINK Archer MR600 cat 6 router. Unfortunately its very basic - can't lock bands. Or cell id. Etc. Unless there are hidden menus?
In relation to band locking, this link


might be helpful. The MR600 v2 should support band locking if it has the latest firmware. The MR600 v1 supports band locking if you install the latest "beta" firmware - I've done it, and it works here. I put "beta" in quotes because I'm pretty sure it will be in beta for ever, I don't think TP-Link will ever pronounce it finished. They do recommend it as you will see on that page, though.
 
Thanks for sharing the links.

Followed the links. Is V1. So no band locking normal firmware. Read the pages. Tried both BETA firmwares - in either of them I don't get the option for band locking.

So.. I have set to 3G only for now. Which is perhaps a bit more stable? 100% signal quality. RSSI is -63dBm. Only issue Vodafone will be switching off in 2023.
 
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Thanks for sharing the links.

Followed the links. Is V1. So no band locking normal firmware. Read the pages. Tried both BETA firmwares - in either of them I don't get the option for band locking.

So.. I have set to 3G only for now. Which is perhaps a bit more stable? 100% signal quality. RSSI is -63dBm. Only issue Vodafone will be switching off in 2023.
Sorry to hear it didn't work for you - as I mentioned, it is OK here. If you wanted to have another go, I have read that it may help to do a factory reset on the MR600 after installing the beta firmware (pin in the hole on the back panel until the power light starts flashing). I haven't tried it because it wasn't necessary, but it might work and shouldn't do any harm,
 
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