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In urgent need of advice - moving to remote house next week.

There will be a conflict there as both routers would broadcast dhcp and probably the same subnets, so more likely than not you'll get a very bad and patchy internet connection.
Other than that there will not be hardware issues, nothing will explode.

However, if something does explode the deal is that you can't blame it on me. :)

Btw, that switch is 100 Mbps, it's probably enough, but if you want something more future-proof there are also gigabit ones available.
 
@tommydog - If you can accept just having two power packs... makes things a lot easier.

Then you can just use the PoE injector that simply comes with the MicroTek + any old cheap WiFi & Router. Plug the CAT6 coming down from the roof into the WAN port and job done. At least there's no concerns with PoE switches + WiFi + having enough power output etc.

 
@tommydog - If you can accept just having two power packs... makes things a lot easier.

I have now clarified the confusion with Mikrotik and it appears I can do what I want to do. Here is their reply:

"If you are powering LHG LTE6 kit directly from hAP ac lite, included POE injector is not required. All you need is a long enough ethernet cable to connect PoE port on hAP ac lite with LHG LTE6 kit. That is all you will be using one PSU with hAP ac lite and and it will power LHG LTE6 kit over ethernet cable. All our routers use very versatile Router OS software, which allows to use any of the ports (including POE ports) for internet connection, not just Eth1."

So it seems it will work as I want. It just leaves me with the decision as to whether I will purchase the hap lite or the TP Link TL-SF1005P V2 being sold on Amazon for £27. Lucian seems to think the TP link will work as I want it to work, is cheaper then the Mikrotik router and has greater power output from the POE ports. Granted the TP link does not have built in wifi, but I guess if I went this route, a POE wireless access point plugged into the TP ink may provide more versatile options for wifi coverage.
 
I have now clarified the confusion with Mikrotik and it appears I can do what I want to do. Here is their reply:

"If you are powering LHG LTE6 kit directly from hAP ac lite, included POE injector is not required. All you need is a long enough ethernet cable to connect PoE port on hAP ac lite with LHG LTE6 kit. That is all you will be using one PSU with hAP ac lite and and it will power LHG LTE6 kit over ethernet cable. All our routers use very versatile Router OS software, which allows to use any of the ports (including POE ports) for internet connection, not just Eth1."

So it seems it will work as I want. It just leaves me with the decision as to whether I will purchase the hap lite or the TP Link TL-SF1005P V2 being sold on Amazon for £27. Lucian seems to think the TP link will work as I want it to work, is cheaper then the Mikrotik router and has greater power output from the POE ports. Granted the TP link does not have built in wifi, but I guess if I went this route, a POE wireless access point plugged into the TP ink may provide more versatile options for wifi coverage.
Good I'm glad the got back to you to confirm it will work as you want to configure it...If you do go with an alternative switch consider a gigabit one like the one I linked to in post 22 TP-Link TL-SG1005P. TP-Link also manufacture AP's that are powered by POE such as this one TP-Link TL-WA1201

I hope it all works okay for you and good luck with the move.

 
Good I'm glad the got back to you to confirm it will work as you want to configure it...If you do go with an alternative switch consider a gigabit one like the one I linked to in post 22 TP-Link TL-SG1005P.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't see the advantage of a Gigabit one for myself. It seems that the limiting factor will be the speed of my internet connection, and the TL-SF1005P V2 will well exceed that. As for other things, I don't do a lot with my network and don't have a NAS etc. I simply use brose the internet and print to a network printer, thats about it.
 
For a very good and very cheap wifi AP I suggest you watch Peter's video. I got 2 of these and they're awesome, no poe though, but at £ 5-10 maybe you can forgive it that.

 
I purchased the MikroTik RBLHGR&R11e-LTE6 and TP link TL-SF1005P 5 port switch and can confirm the TP link switch is powering the Mikrotik and transferring data fine. There is no need for the power injector.

I can now get online, which is progress, however the performance seems to be inconsistent. After tests, I found Giffgaff (02) to be the most reliable, but the performance is inconsistent. My speed fluctuates between 1mbps to 8mbps download. Upload speed is always much faster (between 2 and 3 times faster) I wonder if there are any settings I can change in the router software?
 
When I find the upload is better than the download I have cured it by adjusting antenna,

Not sure if the attached screenshot is helpful at all for giving an idea of what may be going on?
 

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Hi,

Ok, so the RSRP is not terrible, but it's not good either. Same goes for the SINR, ideally it should not be a negative value.

See attached a table with these values so you get an idea of where you're standing.

Try to reposition the antenna so that those numbers improve. Any improvement does not necesarrily translate into better speeds though.. this is the nature of mobile... very relative.
 

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My speed fluctuates between 1mbps to 8mbps download. Upload speed is always much faster (between 2 and 3 times faster) I wonder if there are any settings I can change in the router software?
Do a speed test at 2AM in the morning. If it's much much faster, then it is plain-old congestion I'm afraid... not a great deal can be done there. Perhaps see if you can lock the device to a particular band and see if that helps (if there are multiple bands even available).
 
Do a speed test at 2AM in the morning. If it's much much faster, then it is plain-old congestion I'm afraid... not a great deal can be done there
If I do a speed test late at night the speed is faster, but they does not explain why the upload is always so much faster than the download (2 to 3 times faster)
 
If I do a speed test late at night the speed is faster, but they does not explain why the upload is always so much faster than the download (2 to 3 times faster)
Have you tried to reposition it, does it make any difference?
 
Have you tried to reposition it, does it make any difference?
I have tried to reposition, but it is very inconsistent. When repositioning and doing one off tests, you think you have a better speed initially. But when tested again you end up pretty much with what you had before, or even less. One test may read 10mpbs, whereas you test a few minutes later and it reads 2mpbs. I estimate that the average of all the tests is about 6mpbs, which I can live with. The fact that I had nothing before and now have a useable connection is a massive plus.
 
My Mikrotik LTE Kit gives the RSRP, RSRQ and SINR stats, but also gives CQI. I found that you can ignore the first three and just do whatever you need to do to get the CQI value as high as possible (mine is now the max of 15). CQI is derived from the other values, but has a direct correlation to the throughput speed. Position and direction affect it quite a lot - even a few inches can make a difference, though it can take a minute or two to settle once you have made an adjustment, so it can be worthwhile taking the time to make very small adjustments.
 
My device is running RouterOS, and the CQI and other stats are in the "lte1" page selected in the "interfaces" page from the LHS menu..
I will have to do some digging as I still don't see it.

Another strange thing I noticed is if the speed drops, it often recovers if I power the unit down and restart.
 
I will have to do some digging as I still don't see it.

Another strange thing I noticed is if the speed drops, it often recovers if I power the unit down and restart.
Try to see if the bands change, when speeds change. You should be able to lock onto a band.
 
My device is running RouterOS, and the CQI and other stats are in the "lte1" page selected in the "interfaces" page from the LHS menu..

I have now found it. The really strange thing is the CQI seems to disappear every minute or so. I have observed it fluctuating between 7 and 9. Here is a screenshot
 

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