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You8000 Speed Troubles

Are you getting the advertised 7000Mbps speeds?


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35kW/h per week to heat the garage, madness!!
That doesn't include the 24 HDDs spinning away, 25Gb NIC, or all the other stuff.

Total draw of about 480W, including switches, ISP gear, AP, camera or other standby stuff. Unfortunately my PDU doesn't split bank load, just total.

So more like 80kWh/week.

Solar panels are on the cards.
 
Workstation example posted has 2 x NVMe, 4 x SSD (ZFS mirror/stripped drive pool) + 2 x 2 Intel X570 SFP+ cards running 2 VM's & 4 nested containers per VM.. Focus is 100% on power efficiency per watt


Citation please, that's not my experience in any way shape or form..
Citation? Physics.
 
That doesn't include the 24 HDDs spinning away, 25Gb NIC, or all the other stuff.

Total draw of about 480W, including switches, ISP gear, AP, camera or other standby stuff. Unfortunately my PDU doesn't split bank load, just total.

So more like 80kWh/week.

Solar panels are on the cards.
Thank you for making me feel better about my electricity consumption.
 
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Sorry for moving this thread slightly offtopic...! :p

Solar panels are on the cards.
Has made a huge diff to me, but I'd recommend getting battery storage at the same time - as you pay less VAT on the batteries if it's at the same time as the install (annoyingly).

The downside to this is now i'm solar+batteried up, I use almost nothing from the grid during the day, so I'm getting 1p for opting into the saving sessions, but not actually saving anything, and without any real solar output as the weather has turned, I don't really have a huge excess (yet) to forcibly export during the time either. Will double storage capacity when i've got another ~£7k or so to play with

If them's rookie numbers, what do pro numbers look like :unsure:
Higher energy bills :D

Not to call this 'pro' - just a heavier power user - load shifting this off-peak helps loads though.

Small solar array (2.4Kw system - biggest that'd fit my usable roof space annoyingly.), 3x Pylontech US5000's on a LuxPower SquirrelPod (self install) keeps my actual costs down, as I charge on cheap none-peak energy but I use quite a bit of power generally. (EV, about ~600w in my 'lab', generally being a nerd. I've also got some pretty high phantom power usage in this house which I've still not got to the bottom of - Burglar alarm was a big chunk of that though). The high load is in the garage, and I've added a vent basically from the garage to the house, so anytime the iLO temperature or the array disk temp is above where I want it to be, home assistant turns on a fan to pull air from the garage into the house. (front of the garage is vented).


1701681392879.png


House is a mid/late 90s build and is suspiciously cold. Thermal camera is showing me several issues (like huge thermal bridging on the dot&dab plaster), else the 'this week' energy would be lower I'm sure. Just working through things slowly but surely - like adding vents to the rafters and then using the 'foil bubble wrap type' insulator products to protect the garage from the back of the tile/felt temperatures.


it's not as bad as it looks though.
1701681464720.png

Standing Charge is a disgraceful tax and should be minimised or abolished IMO :p

It's high at the moment as I'm also making use of electric heaters / blankets etc., usually on the cheaper rates.

"LAB" is a "small" array server, 12bay 2U supermicro box (running a XeonD mobo), 2U HP DL380 Gen9 running esxi, UDM pro for CCTV, Supermicro A1SRI (Atom powered C2000 series mobo, as my router). Will be getting some condensation in the new year, though haven't decided what way I'm going as yet but I've got a "medium" sized EPYC server & mobo coming to play with.
 
Sorry for moving this thread slightly offtopic...! :p


Has made a huge diff to me, but I'd recommend getting battery storage at the same time - as you pay less VAT on the batteries if it's at the same time as the install (annoyingly).

The downside to this is now i'm solar+batteried up, I use almost nothing from the grid during the day, so I'm getting 1p for opting into the saving sessions, but not actually saving anything, and without any real solar output as the weather has turned, I don't really have a huge excess (yet) to forcibly export during the time either. Will double storage capacity when i've got another ~£7k or so to play with


Higher energy bills :D

Not to call this 'pro' - just a heavier power user - load shifting this off-peak helps loads though.

Small solar array (2.4Kw system - biggest that'd fit my usable roof space annoyingly.), 3x Pylontech US5000's on a LuxPower SquirrelPod (self install) keeps my actual costs down, as I charge on cheap none-peak energy but I use quite a bit of power generally. (EV, about ~600w in my 'lab', generally being a nerd. I've also got some pretty high phantom power usage in this house which I've still not got to the bottom of - Burglar alarm was a big chunk of that though). The high load is in the garage, and I've added a vent basically from the garage to the house, so anytime the iLO temperature or the array disk temp is above where I want it to be, home assistant turns on a fan to pull air from the garage into the house. (front of the garage is vented).


View attachment 9428

House is a mid/late 90s build and is suspiciously cold. Thermal camera is showing me several issues (like huge thermal bridging on the dot&dab plaster), else the 'this week' energy would be lower I'm sure. Just working through things slowly but surely - like adding vents to the rafters and then using the 'foil bubble wrap type' insulator products to protect the garage from the back of the tile/felt temperatures.


it's not as bad as it looks though.
View attachment 9429
Standing Charge is a disgraceful tax and should be minimised or abolished IMO :p

It's high at the moment as I'm also making use of electric heaters / blankets etc., usually on the cheaper rates.

"LAB" is a "small" array server, 12bay 2U supermicro box (running a XeonD mobo), 2U HP DL380 Gen9 running esxi, UDM pro for CCTV, Supermicro A1SRI (Atom powered C2000 series mobo, as my router). Will be getting some condensation in the new year, though haven't decided what way I'm going as yet but I've got a "medium" sized EPYC server & mobo coming to play with.
Interesting power numbers.. Got a schematic of your setup (yeah, well off thread topic..)

Your monthly power consumption takes my household 4.5 months to achieve, yet we pay an almost identical monthly amount to Octopus (sub 200kw/h/month) ... Hence my focus on very low power consumption

Octopus novDec.webp
 
I'm getting screwed, that's for sure. 28.09p/kWh, jumping to 29.38p next month. I used 912kWh last month. You can figure out my bill from there. :cry:

I'd love to know how you ended up on a <8p rate, which I'm guessing has a LOT to do with the panels.
 
I'm getting screwed, that's for sure. 28.09p/kWh, jumping to 29.38p next month. I used 912kWh last month. You can figure out my bill from there. :cry:

I'd love to know how you ended up on a <8p rate, which I'm guessing has a LOT to do with the panels.
Intelligent Octopus tarif is Octopus' EV charging tarif, up to 6 hours of charging overnight at 7.5p/kW/h


@Matt_2k34 is dumping 7.2kW/h x 6 hours into batteries in the garage instead of batteries in a vehicle then using a time based switch/contactor to switch house supply over to the batteries to run house of the batteries for the remaining 18 hours of the day.. looks like an extremely effective way of gaming high electricity prices

<looks like on average its more like 4.2kW/h on a 6 hour charge stint or 5.2kW/h on a 5 hour charge stint, so 20% below maximum extraction rate but probably limited by total battery storage capacity or battery charging rate>
 
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Bit annoying you only get it if you have an EV. As if the infrastructure costs go down simply because of it? :rolleyes:
 

You can join Intelligent Octopus Go if...

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You have a compatible car OR charging system

We can currently connect with over 280 EVs OR you can connect any car that uses a compatible charger.
 
@Matt_2k34 is dumping 7.2kW/h x 6 hours into batteries in the garage instead of batteries in a vehicle then using a time based switch/contactor to switch house supply over to the batteries to run house of the batteries for the remaining 18 hours of the day.. looks like an extremely effective way of gaming high electricity prices
It has been so far :) I took the plunge because the rate got extremely painful, and I'd got a lump of savings I could use to try and reduce the monthly bills (I'm one of these people who likes to pay for things up front / annually rather than have recurring monthly payments)

Bit annoying you only get it if you have an EV. As if the infrastructure costs go down simply because of it? :rolleyes:
The point of the Go tariffs is they want to be in a position they can turn up and down your car charging speed depending on network load (grid sympathetic charging).

I have an Ohme Pro for my car which is their recommended charger (and the reason I picked it) - although the integration isn't there yet, there's an additional tab in the Octopus app for my EV Charger which I'm assuming will provide override to the functionality once it's live. (which is why the rate is particularly good). I'm guessing part of the sign up is seeing if the charger itself already supports sympathetic charging (all modern ones should)

They do let you sign up with a forward date if you're expecting a car - there used to be a product which stated EV AND Home Battery charging and I thought it was this.

However they may have removed that blurb with the launch of Octopus Flux / Intelligent Flux (meant for solar & batteries - but the rate isn't as good)... Might be worth a phone call anyway to ask the restrictions over the phone.

I might be thinking of "GO" looked at the EV charger usage only - so only this got the great rate, whereas on the "intelligent go" product it's actually slightly less intelligent in that it lets you use it for home storage too (with no real restriction from my point of view)

edit: prior to them launching the intelligent product, I was looking at adding a 2nd home EV charger "a la" 3-pin plug and then making an adapter I could use to feed the Type-2 EV charger into an inverter/battery charger - but "Intelligent GO" meant that wasn't needed... (And saved me about £500 in another EV charger which was nice :D)
 
@Matt_2k34 That is genius and you are a legend. I was planning on solar panels and batteries and I think you've just moved up my battery install by a few months and increased the amount of battery involved.
 
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@Matt_2k34 That is genius and you are a legend. I was planning on solar panels and batteries and I think you've just moved up my battery install by a few months and increased the amount of battery involved.
Hopefully it helps :)

Load shifting I think is *the way* if you want to minimize bills. Now OFGEM just need to make the standing charge tiny (I don't mind it in principle, I just don't like how expensive it is). A higher peak unit rate and a super cheap load shifted rate I think is the best way to balance the grid.
(https://grid.iamkate.com/ if you were curious in the 'current state' of affairs in terms of £ per MWh)

For me:
-Panels and regular Solis inverter (meh, seems ok, I paid to have this installed) - though sadly roof space limited me to ~2.25kwh generation, UK average is 4.
-I ripped out all of their AC cabling because when I'd dug deeper I wasn't overly impressed (like 4mm T+E was kinked through the wall)
-Moved the MCS meter up to closer to the inverter (I don't have a FIT, so no one comes to check it - so it's now in the loft.)
-I installed Luxpower ACS 3600 / Squirrel Pod - with 3x Pylontech US5000 batteries, but this way lets me add another inverter, for double output & another battery stack when I can. (can take up to 8 batteries but you need to size for your available charging, and I only run the inverter at ~75% charge - you don't want to be mixing "new and old" batteries in 1 stack). They do a larger hybrid inverter product but I liked the 3.6 / 7.2 etc. kwh each time you add a parallel unit.


If you're adding panels - I would get as much as you physically can afford in one go to avoid the VAT. I ended up basically doing a self install and getting a spark to assist with the paperwork as I didn't get the VAT saving, I had to find it in installation cost to make it work. (Paperwork isn't hard (at least for western power / national grid) - it just uses terms purposefully obtuse and a copy of relevant pages out of the 18th edition sparkies handbook was useful).

Adding a second unit/battery stack obviously you lose the VAT saving, but you can scale out at a future date without backing yourself technically into a corner.

I think this is a pretty solid way to do it, the luxpower apps are pretty solid and they've been around a while. "Infinity innovations" is the lux UK distributor and although small the guys were very helpful (I'd asked about basically self install/using a local spark, and they referred me to a company who could sort out not only my account access to do the app setup etc - but would sell me the unit directly and provider installation paperwork etc)
 
Last edited:
Hopefully it helps :)

Load shifting I think is *the way* if you want to minimize bills. Now OFGEM just need to make the standing charge tiny (I don't mind it in principle, I just don't like how expensive it is). A higher peak unit rate and a super cheap load shifted rate I think is the best way to balance the grid.
(https://grid.iamkate.com/ if you were curious in the 'current state' of affairs in terms of £ per MWh)

For me:
-Panels and regular Solis inverter (meh, seems ok, I paid to have this installed) - though sadly roof space limited me to ~2.25kwh generation, UK average is 4.
-I ripped out all of their AC cabling because when I'd dug deeper I wasn't overly impressed (like 4mm T+E was kinked through the wall)
-Moved the MCS meter up to closer to the inverter (I don't have a FIT, so no one comes to check it - so it's now in the loft.)
-I installed Luxpower ACS 3600 / Squirrel Pod - with 3x Pylontech US5000 batteries, but this way lets me add another inverter, for double output & another battery stack when I can. (can take up to 8 batteries but you need to size for your available charging, and I only run the inverter at ~75% charge - you don't want to be mixing "new and old" batteries in 1 stack). They do a larger hybrid inverter product but I liked the 3.6 / 7.2 etc. kwh each time you add a parallel unit.


If you're adding panels - I would get as much as you physically can afford in one go to avoid the VAT. I ended up basically doing a self install and getting a spark to assist with the paperwork as I didn't get the VAT saving, I had to find it in installation cost to make it work. (Paperwork isn't hard (at least for western power / national grid) - it just uses terms purposefully obtuse and a copy of relevant pages out of the 18th edition sparkies handbook was useful).

Adding a second unit/battery stack obviously you lose the VAT saving, but you can scale out at a future date without backing yourself technically into a corner.

I think this is a pretty solid way to do it, the luxpower apps are pretty solid and they've been around a while. "Infinity innovations" is the lux UK distributor and although small the guys were very helpful (I'd asked about basically self install/using a local spark, and they referred me to a company who could sort out not only my account access to do the app setup etc - but would sell me the unit directly and provider installation paperwork etc)
Excellent stuff ..(y)

What % of your overnight usage is used for vehicle charging? The numbers don't seem to add up unless you're charging it every night. And what does the <run the inverter at 75%> mean in practice, is this limiting your ability to extract 7.2kW/hr out of the grid overnight? Seems you've got more than sufficient storage capacity yet you're still getting hit for an additional 28kW/hr at peak+ rates.
 
The numbers don't seem to add up unless you're charging it every night.

Yep that's fair, so a bit of refinement as I wasn't clear previously.

Current battery inverter is capable of 3.6kWh charge/discharge. The charging at 75% is 75% load of max - so about 2.7kWh is pushed into the batteries per hour. (I can extract at full 3.6kWh though - these are 16A feeds into the house.)

The US5000 recommends max depth of discharge of 95% - I do 90%. (and 95% for the EPS - UPS type - socket - though not in use yet). These are 4800Wh, so * 90% gives you ~4320 x 3 in this stack = ~12,960Wh storage.

Adding another 3.6kwh inverter is planned (hopefully this year, funds dependent - it's the same unit but you add parallel comms between them so they work in tandem) - which will give me the ability to do 7.2kWh in/out of the batteries. With another stack of the same batteries. So doubling the amount of storage, and doubling the input/output performance.

Car charging - I WFH full time, and only sort of potter around in the week. Usually most driving is at the weekend.

Usually if I'm away for the weekend I'll be home late Sunday night, so whatever remains of 23:30-> 05:30 gets dumped into the car on the Ohme Pro. Interestingly because the grid voltage at the house is so high (~248v+ ) I achieve a bit over the "standard" 7kwh speed, the VW app registers 8kwh regularly. (32a house feed * ~248v is 7,936). House is 100A feed but I've got the Ohme to back off at 90A, just so the charger/car has time to react and dial back/pause without me overloading anything. (I get nowhere near this, ever - realistically)

Battery is usually topped up from ~20% to 80% by midway through Monday "eco 6", worst case scenario. I will bump the car to 100% if I know I'll be doing a journey that'll need a stop-off charge, to make sure I take "as much with me" as possible.

Solar:
Winter - extends the battery by whatever it can generate (keeping them separate I like, but it means there will always be a touch going in/out of the grid during load spikes etc)

Summer - is able to charge the batteries back up to 100% usually by midday, then I have some excess to burn off (fans/AC etc weather normally!) so this is usually easily done, any excess I'm not burning off (e.g. I've gone out - and switched off those things) - gets sent back into the grid (I try and do as little of this as possible)

Additional - Gas (Combi Boiler):
Summer - I realised pretty quickly it's not worth bothering using the hot tap in my house when washing hands etc. as it gets to lukewarm by the time I'm done, so boiler only runs for showers in the Summer, else it's standing charge only.

Winter - I've got TRVs on all the radiators in the house, and Home Assistant monitors those temps, anything "very low" - think frost protect - it turns on a relay which is on the thermostat wiring to the boiler (Shelly 1PM, though a Shelly 1 would have done, I just had this to hand). So I have no temperature "controls" automatically set, it's all done (usually manually) by me unless it hit's a preset minimum temp.
Also run the heating anytime the shower is in use - Pushing the boiler slightly harder to do both sets of water heating is more significantly more efficient than running both cycles separately, on my pretty old (but perfectly adequate) Vaillant boiler... Replacing this for a new gas boiler isn't economical vs the efficiency saved. Had some pinholed radiators which I've replaced myself to cut cost, and flushed and added inhibitor to the rads. Boiler is now significantly quieter and hopefully lasts a few more years until I can look at swapping the lot out for heatpump & bigger rads.

My house is absolutely awful in terms of insulation in my opinion. Late 90s house with cavity walls (none-insulated, but horror stories...) and windows that are probably due replacement (uPVC but beading is exterior so shows the age, and they're using foam between the glass and the upvc frame - I've "temporarily" fixed the living room window by sealing the frame around the air vent with expanding foam. My neighbour' drive is close to that window and his tank of a diesel used to fill the living room with fumes. I'm thinking I'll have a crack at replacing these myself. Though over the conservatory/garage roof is the only ones that will give me an issue I think)

Hope that helps / is clearer. If anything isn't clear or you have more questions then please let me know.

Apologies from taking this thread veeeeeeeeeery off-piste :) it might be worth splitting some of the messages from the thread but I'm not sure how easy that'd be.
 
Just setup my DM SE. All working just great for 2gb/2gb and sfp+ to rj45
modules for my 10gb switch.. Will let it settle down before changing tier👌..
 
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